Nile Nightshade: An Egyptian Culinary History of the Tomato
A cultural and culinary history of modern Egypt through the nation's beloved tomato.
Forthcoming from the University of California Press in October 2025
Preorder: Bookshop | Amazon | Barnes & Noble | Indiepubs
To schedule an event or book talk, please reach out! ann [dot] gaul [at] gmail [dot] com
About the book
By the end of the twentieth century, the tomato—indigenous to the Americas—had become Egypt’s top horticultural crop and a staple of Egyptian cuisine. Nile Nightshade tells the story of how this came to be.
Along the way, the tomato offers a multitude of new stories about familiar things: how its history threads through the Indian Ocean world, not just the Mediterranean; its significance not just to Italian but to Ottoman cuisine (and how both converged in Egypt); that the common association of Egypt with the “Middle East” rather than the rest of Africa is neither inevitable nor incidental; how seemingly ephemeral practices like home cooking transform the “modern” into the “traditional” and consolidate—or even create—notions of difference that come to be understood as common sense.
“Nile Nightshade provides a master class in food history by deftly and accessibly navigating a complex political, culinary, and linguistic story through a now-common vegetable. By prioritizing the kitchen, Anny Gaul produces a new way of thinking about the building of national cuisines that traverses borders both imposed and imaginative.”
Cook (from) the book
Recipes from (or inspired by) Nile Nightshade and the cookbooks & culinary practices it discusses:
Sweet Tomato Jam | Baladi Lentil Soup | Roasted Duck | Tasbikassoulet | Saʿidi-style Egyptian Roasted Duck | Koshari | Sharkasiyya
“Gaul’s amazingly documented, engagingly erudite, and insightful story of how Egyptians made the tomato their own is a fascinating way to learn about Egypt: its history, agriculture, culinary culture, and people.”
Read more/read ahead:
Resource: a list of libraries, archives, and online repositories with sources relevant to Egypt’s food, nutritional, and agricultural history
Anny’s Bite of Egypt: Beyond Stereotypes (Dot Lemon Films). A short film on how I approach food history & deconstructing tired stereotypes about Egyptian food
Food Historian and Assistant Professor of Arabic Anny Gaul Receives NEH Grant. Coverage of how the project came to be
This Egyptian Grain Bowl is the Pantry Wonder-Dish We Need Right Now, in Eater. A recipe + preview of the history of koshari explored in Chapter 1 (though you’ll have to read the book for the latest version!)
Ask Abla Nazira: Nazira Nicola – The Doyenne of Modern Egyptian Cooking, in Rawi (also in Arabic). A profile of one of the cookbook authors at the heart of the book (her recipes are referenced in 4 of the 6 chapters)
Revolutionary Landscapes and Kitchens of Refusal: Tomato Sauce and Sovereignty in Egypt, in Gender & History. Parts of this article, revised & expanded, made their way into chapters 3 & 5
“I thoroughly enjoyed reading this book. It adds a fresh and original dimension to the study of modern Egypt.”